STOOGE SPEEDBOMB REVIEW PART 2…

I’ve put ~300kms on the Stooge Speedbomb since I got it about a month and a half a go so I figured it was time for an update. For the TLdr crowd I did a lot of tire experimentation since my Part 1 review dropped. A lot. I was going to call this review “A Tale of Ten Tires!” I suppose it’s not a surprise that on a bike that doesn’t have any suspension or gears the setup changes you can make become more important. As I tried different tires I ended tweaking the SS cog I was using as well. Jump to the bottom of the review to find out what tires and gearing I settled on.

Other than tires and SS cogs the Speedbomb is running the same parts it started with. I don’t recall even adjusting anything minor like bar position. I’ve been really enjoying riding this bike. My trail riding split is ~75% Stooge and 25% Pipedream Sirius [w/ gears]. As you might expect the more SS riding I do the easier/more fun it is to ride singlespeed. While I am not ready to commit to SS 24/7/365 I’m feeling pretty set on riding the Speedbomb SS. Every time my I think about putting gears on it my brain just says Nope! It’s just made to be run without gears.

Bontrager XR2 + XR2 – 29 x 3.0″ [No Inserts]

My initial setup was dual Bontrager XR2 tires. I’ve run these on my Surly Krampus for years so I knew I would love them. Well at least in the dry. XR2s have a very subtle small block tread pattern. On a 29 x 3.0″ tire this tread pattern exceeds expectations for trail riding. For wet winter Coastal BC conditions they do start to slip and slide enough I want something else [at least up front], but even as they are letting me down I can’t get mad because they did so well up until that point. The flip side of the small knobs is this is a very light and very fast rolling tire. Riding a 100kms of gravel/pavement is not a chore at all. Riding SS they spin up really easily and are a pleasure to be on.

My goal with the Speedbomb is to be able to ride the full range of trails I have locally, which includes some more challenging black and double black diamond rated trails. We also have a lot of wooden features that can be quite treacherous in the winter. So while I have lots of love for the XR2 it’s not enough tire to keep me smiling through all the riding I want to do with this bike.

Maxxis DHF + DHRII – 29 x 3.0″ [Cushcore Plus x 2]

The next 29+ tires that fell to hand were some Maxxis DHF/DHRs in MAXXterra/EXO. As you would expect from their less chubby siblings these are heavy knobby tires. I decided to try some Cushcore in them as that should give me a super robust setup to prevent any rim damage when I was getting overly zesty on rocky trails. Installing CC Plus and these tires was an ordeal. Perhaps not quite as bad as some readers may be imagining, but not easy. If you are going to tackle this yourself watch a few CC install videos. Get the CC tire lever/sex toy. Get a plastic garbage can to work on. Take your time. Walk away if you get frustrated and then come back when you are feeling less angry. It does get easier. Unfortunately unless you install CC for a living you aren’t going to get enough repeated experience to enjoy that benefit too much.

I run DHF/DHRs in 29 x 2.6″ Tannus insert in rear only] on my hardtails and love them. So I was hopeful this would be a decent tire option for me. Well I didn’t make it 1km from the trailhead before I realized I hated how these tires + inserts worked for me. I kept wanting to turn the bike back to the start and end the ride, but I kept going for a full loop and a couple hours in the name of Bike Science! Starting with the positives the traction was great. Okay. That’s the good stuff done! Unfortunately these tires/inserts were so heavy/slow rolling that trying to spin them up to speed was painful. The snappy fun ride of the XR2s was gone and any motivation to hammer with it. The bike was also way too stable and wanted to steam roller everything making throwing it around hard. I could make the bike go forward, but it was just a slog. I also had to be okay hitting chunk I’d have popped over or ridden around with a lighter setup. Keeping in mind I’ll happily ride my 29 x 2.6″ DHF/DHRs from my house to the trails and back 30kms on pavement so I’m not afraid of an aggressively knobby tire. I also didn’t flinch adding the weight of a Tannus insert to the rear of my hardtails. I’m not a weight weenie. That said there comes a point when you just can’t ignore the added mass. This was one of those times.

What made things worse was the ride feel was awful as well. Something about that extra weight and the much smaller free volume inside the tire due to the CC insert made every bump feel significantly more harsh. With that added stability I ended hitting more stuff since changing lines was harder. It took away all of that sweet 29+ cushion ride feel, which on a rigid bike is tough to swallow. So to recap pedaling across and up sucked. Coasting downhill sucked. I went home and immediately ripped these tires/inserts off the rims. I had to resist burning them with FIRE! Just kidding. Sort of.

Now some folks will thinking that this is unfair because the tires might have been okay without the CC plus inserts. That’s true. I am keeping the DHF/DHR 29+ rubber. Partially as a hedge against a future where there are no 29 x 3.0″ tire options and because in the future, when the horror of this recent test has faded, I’ll try them again sans CC and see what I think. My guess is I’ll like them as much as I did the XR4 + XR4 setup, but time will tell.

DHF + DHRII – 29 x 2.6″ [Tannus Tubeless insert rear only]

After the failed Maxxis 29+ tire/CC insert test I had some time to kill waiting for more 29+ rubber to land at my door so I threw the wheels/tires from my Pipedream Sirius SS bike onto the Speedbomb. This was a wheelset/tire combo I have put thousands of trail KMs on and I loved them on my hardtails so I had some hopes they would work well on the Stooge. The obvious downside was the volume difference between a 2.6″ tire and 3.0″ tire is significant, although the smaller tires are lighter [same comparing same brand/model] and on a rigid bike I wasn’t sure I’d like that trade off, but it was worth a try.

On the positive side of things these wheels spun up super easy so it felt great to stand and hammer on the pedals then feel the bike jump forward. Getting the bike off the ground or changing lines was easy and it really encouraged me to play with the trail as much as possible. Traction was excellent as it always is with this setup. On the downside the smaller tires did not have that lovely floaty 29+ feel and when hitting chunk were harsher than say the XR2s. That said because they were so agile I could avoid a lot of the bumps I hit on the DHF/DHR+CC setup and the 29 x 2.6″ ride feel was better than that weird CC insert harsh ramp up. So the ride feel/comfort wasn’t actually bad with these smaller tires.

Based on what I had tried to this point I liked the 2.6″ DHF/DHR [Exo 3C MAXXterra] + rear Tannus insert the best for winter riding. It gave me excellent traction with decent ride feel. I did feel a bit sad to give up on the 29+ experience with a frame that can fit that size tire so I wanted to keep trying.

Maxxis Rekon+ + Rekon+ [No Inserts]

I have used 29 x 2.8″ Rekon+ [EXO/DC] tires a bunch on my bikepacking hardtail and I had a set hanging in the garage so I figured I would try them. The Rekons have more traction than the XR2s, but less than the DHF/DHR. Their weight and rolling speed is in between those other tires as well. You don’t get quite the same floaty ride feel with a 2.8″ tire vs. a true 3.0″ 29+ tire, but it’s still pretty nice and noticeably more volume than a 2.6″ tire. Riding the Stooge with Rekon+ tires was good. I could ride fairly aggressively without losing traction and the snappy/agile ride feel was satisfying. The front end traction wasn’t quite as solid as I wanted for winter riding, but I could make it work if there wasn’t a better option. These tires were a solid maybe!

Bontrager XR4 + XR4 [No Inserts]

When some XR4s landed I mounted them up without any inserts. I have a ton of experience with the XR2, but I had never tried their more chonky brothers. The traction these tires offered was pretty darn good. I’d probably give the edge for that to the DHF/DHRs, but the difference wasn’t big enough to matter. Without the inserts there was no weird tire volume ramp up harshness to deal with and that was nice. On the other hand their weight and rolling resistance was noticeably higher than the 29+ XR2s. This killed a bit of that snappy ride feel I liked and there was still some of that harshness from the heavier tires hitting chunk that I didn’t get with the dual XR2s or the 2.6″ DHF/DHRs. If you told me I had to ride these tires I wouldn’t blow my brains out, but I wouldn’t be stoked either.

Bontrager XR4 + XR2 [No Inserts]

With the information I had so far there was one last option I wanted to try. Maybe an XR4 up front with an XR2 in the rear would be a good combo providing the best of each tire and mitigating the parts I didn’t like? Out on the trail these tires did work pretty well together. The front end is solid and dependable for traction while the rear does okay in terms of traction and keeps the overall bike moving forward well enough when I pedal. The Stooge isn’t as agile/snappy as the dual XR2s or the 2.6″ DHF/DHRs, but it’s not bad. I do enjoy that lovely floaty 29+ ride feel I get with the 3″ tires. The rear XR2 does lose traction occasionally. Especially when I stand to hammer up a slippery climb and move my weight too far forward. That said it doesn’t happen a lot. Most of the time I feel pretty impressed with how that lightly knobbed tire hooks up. I’ve ridden this combo quite hard for a big chunk of the total KMs on the Speedbomb. So far no dents in either rim despite the lack of inserts and lack of suspension at either end. Only time will tell if that’s sustainable long-term.

Best Coastal BC Winter Tires?

To be clear picking a “best” tire option is totally subjective. A lot comes down to which type of ride feel I like more and that can change from ride to ride. So take my opinion with a grain of salt in that regard. After way too much tire testing if you made me choose the “best” tires would be the 29 x 2.6″ DHF/DHR with a Tannus insert in the rear. Traction is excellent. The bike feels snappy/agile to ride which is fun and means I can avoid a lot of chunkiness. The downside is the smaller volume tire isn’t as comfortable on a rigid bike so when I do hit stuff I feel it. Then again I hit less stuff so it’s not a huge negative. However, that’s not the the tire combo I decided to ride! I ended up sticking with the XR4 + XR2 with no inserts. I’d rank this setup slightly less amazing overall than the previous one, but my other trail bikes all run on 29 x 2.6″ tires so adding one more bike with the same tires to that mix doesn’t give me anything fresh. Whereas having a 29 x 3.0″ mountain bike is a fun/fresh/different ride experience and I do enjoy me some 29+ Kool Aid! Not to mention the rigid aspect. If I start denting my rims with the 29+ setup I’ll have to reconsider.

Here is my overall ranking list for winter riding:

  1. DHF + DHR – 29 x 2.6″ [Tannus Insert Rear Only]
  2. XR4 + XR2 – 29 x 3.0″ [No Insert]
  3. Rekon+ x 2 – 29 x 2.8″ [No Insert]
  4. XR2 x 2 – 29 x 3.0″ [No Insert]
  5. XR4 x 2 – 29 x 3.0″ [No Insert]
  6. DHF + DHR – 29 x 3.0″ [Cushcore Plus x 2]

Singlespeed Gearing

Aside from tires I have played around with the size of the SS cog on the Stooge. The front ring has always been a 30T. I started with a 22T cog and while that worked it was fairly hard to get on top of on the punchiest of climbs. If I was feeling good and riding trails I knew, so I could optimize my momentum into climbs, it would be fine. If I was tired and/or riding trails I didn’t know well I’d be walking a bunch. Then I tried a 23T cog. With a light tire like the XR2s that worked well and gave me a bigger margin to allow me to react slower to the need to crank on the pedals. However, once I went to a heavier setup like the XR4 x 2 or DHF/DHR with Cushcore that cog felt too hard to push. So I busted out a 24T cog. This bigger cog and the XR4 + XR2 tire setup is where I am at currently. It feels good on the trails. Not too hard and not too easy. However, it’s too low a gear to want to ride across the valley [30K round trip] on pavement to get to/from the trails. I “commute” by bike to the trails less in the winter and I have other bikes that will do that mission happily for me so I’m not going to worry about it. Come the summer I may care more about that issue.

Here is a quick summary of what these various cogs give me for gear inches with a 29 x 3″ tire and 175mm cranks. I threw the number in for my SS hardtail in at the bottom for comparison. I’m using Sheldon Brown’s calculator for these numbers.

  1. 30 x 22T = 40.8″
  2. 30 x 23T = 39.0″
  3. 30 x 24T = 37.4″
  4. 28 x 21T [29 x 2.6″] = 39.2″

Up Next!

Wow if you read this whole post on 29+ tires you are a rockstar! Plus tires/inserts are expensive so hopefully somebody out there finds these results useful in homing in on a good 29+ tire combo for their bike without having to buy and try so many tires. Since I settled on the XR4 + XR2 combo I’ve done quite a lot of riding so I’ll follow up this post shortly with a Part 3 review discussing how the Stooge Speedbomb rides in more detail.

21 thoughts on “STOOGE SPEEDBOMB REVIEW PART 2…

  1. Hi Vik
    First of all, thank you very much for all your posts and comments, both here and on the other platforms like NSMB and MTBR forum. I value what you write a lot even though I might have a different opinion/experience from yours.
    In relations to this particular post, I have read it with great interest as I am a total fan of 29+ tires. I have been using them for many years and I wish they would never disappear. I have a bit of a different experience/opinion from yours in relations to 29+ preferences. First of all, to most people’s surprise, I prefer running tubes. To me they add some support and lateral stability to a light casing tire like an EXO and as far as I check the correct tire pressure meticulously before every ride, I very rarely get a puncture. On my Stache I started with the stock Chupacabras (now XR2) but since trying the DHF/DHR combo on 29×3.0 I have never looked back. To me the added weight and rolling resistance have been negligible but the increase in traction and confidence has been a game changer. And my riding is done 95% in the dry all year round. I have not tried the XR4 yet but I truly regret not buying the SE4 29×3.0 when was still available.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hey Rampi,

      Thanks for reading and commenting. I’m glad you’ve got a setup that works for you. I don’t think there is a “right” answer. I just share my own experiences in so far as it gives folks one perspective that could work for them or might give them some inspiration to experiment and find something that’s better for them. At the end of the day if we are out riding bikes and having fun that’s the only thing that really matters!

      I hope there are still a few quality 29+ tire options that can stick around for the long haul. For folks like us that enjoy the chubby wagon wheel life! 🙂

      Have fun with the Stache. I’ve been tempted few times to get one. They look like sweet bikes.

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    2. I am running on my XL stache always tubes. Combo 3″ DHR/DHR is great, but it si really hard work. Currently on 2.6″ schwalbe SAM, but I miss the cussion. Will go back to 3″. I’m still twaeking the geo on my stache(vere short , tall rider on XL is sitting on rear wheel) and research for stooge moto bar bring me here. Stooge is were nice bike and great reading about tires. You should write more about geo, cause stooge makes only one size bike and for 190cm guy it will be too small. My next bike will be also crmo custom 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Hi Jakub,

        I’m not much of a bike ergonomics/fit expert. I know what I personally like and what works for me, but I don’t really have much to offer someone who is much taller or much shorter than me.

        Getting a custom bike sounds like a great idea though. Being taller you can really create something that fits you well.

        I happen to be lucky and fit the limited Stooge sizing well. I think I am about the same size as the fellow that owns the company.

        If you like the Stooge concept your frame builder can use it for inspiration and upsize a frame to fit you, but keep a lot the same features and ride feel.

        All the best….

        Vik

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  2. Hi Vik
    Apologies for the late response. Recently I have been around and I haven’t had the chance to write again until now. Of course there is not a “right” answer that works for everybody and in different situations. I hope my comment didn’t come up that way. I simply wanted to share my experience with you, and everyone else reading your posts, noting we both like 29+ tires and tried the same tire models.
    The Stache is a super fun bike but nowadays I mostly use it as an urban riding/exploring bike. I have a more progressive (geo wise) hardtail that I use on the trails. The Stache is a wheelie machine and I can’t get enough of it.
    Regarding the Stooge, I am so glad you got one so that I can learn more from you about it and how it rides. Where I live it is quite rare to see a good modern hardtail on the trails, let alone a modern rigid mtb.
    I am so fascinated by a simple yet trail capable machine with very little moving parts. Thare is beauty in that simplicity. For long time I have been extremely interested in the Jones bikes and the concept around which they have been designed. Particularly the SWB model as it appears to be quite playful which is a must for me. But being such a radical change (in terms of geo and body position) compared to what I am used to it would be too risky to get one without trying it first. Then I read in one of your comments (don’t remember where) that you tried one and you didn’t like it much. Considering that some of my bike preferences are similar to yours (short chainstays, reach not too long, STA not too steep, big volume tires, etc) I would really appreciate and value some additional feedback you could provide on the Jones you tried. Thanks a lot.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Rampi,

      My Jones SWB test rides were nearly a decade ago now so I’m a bit fuzzy on the details. I didn’t hate the way they rode, but also there was no magic for me either. A lot of people do enjoy the Jones bike concept so I don’t want to dismiss them out of hand.

      Unfortunately they are not common bikes so you have to take a chance if you want one and see what happens. You might sell it after a year, but at least you will then know.

      That was my plan with the Stooge. Buy one. Ride it for a year. Keep or sell it depending how I felt. Selling it would cost me a few hundred $$, but I look at that as a rental cost for using the frame. I’m quite happy with the Stooge so I don’t see myself selling it.

      Sorry I can’t be more helpful…

      Vik

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      1. Hi Vik
        That’s fair enough, it was too many years ago.
        Buying a Jones just to try it out would cost me a fair bit of money particularly on shipping costs to where I live. Even by selling it after a year ( if I manage to find someone to buy it) will make me loose a bit too much.
        However, I did experiment with the Jones bars a while ago. I know is not the same as trying a Jones bike but to my credit I did try to emulate a similar set up as much as I could with a slack seat tube angle, a very short reach and tall stack with a resulting upright position not dissimilar to what you have with the Jones. And I did not like it.
        The Stooge bikes on the other hand are now capturing my attention more and more after reading several enthusiastic reviews, including yours.
        Perhaps you could be able to give some feedback between a hardtail designed with a suspension fork but with a mounted rigid fork ( like your Krampus) vs the Stooge which is designed specifically with a rigid fork. Am I right to assume that the latter provides better ride quality and comfort particularly with curved fork blades like the one you have which in theory should flex a bit more than a straight legs fork?

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      2. Perhaps you could be able to give some feedback between a hardtail designed with a suspension fork but with a mounted rigid fork ( like your Krampus) vs the Stooge which is designed specifically with a rigid fork. Am I right to assume that the latter provides better ride quality and comfort particularly with curved fork blades like the one you have which in theory should flex a bit more than a straight legs fork?

        Hi Rampi,

        I don’t think there is a useful generalization I can make. The OG green Krampus has a very nice frame flex including the fork. If I had to guess the Speedbomb is a bit stiffer inlcuding the fork, but it’s close enough I wouldn’t trust my judgement to differentiate it. Production bike frames tend to be overbuilt for liability/warranty purposes so they err on the side of too stiff as a general rule.

        The newer Krampus is a noticeable amount stiffer based on reports from folks that owned both versions. However, the design looks pretty similar externally so it’s not something you’d pick up from a glance.

        I’m 5’11” tall and ~195lbs ready to ride so I can usually find something that works for me without being too harsh, but I definitely pay attention to review comments and if larger guys are complaining about a stiff ride I stay away.

        The Speedbomb fits into the category of frame/fork that makes me happy without being particularly flexy. In a perfect world if I was custom building a similar frame and I had the luxury of making a few prototypes I’d push things towards lighter tubing and see what we could achieve. I suspect there is more performance and comfort to be unlocked. That said it’s a production frame meant to suit lots of people and Stooge doesn’t want to deal with loads of warranty claims from people that ride hard and/or don’t take care of their bikes.

        I would buy another Stooge. Which is about as high a compliment for a production frame as I can offer. Both the handling and the frame/fork stiffness work well for me.

        — Vik

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  3. Hi Vik! I’ve seen you around the NSMB comments before and of course at bikepacking.com with the recent feature on your Stooge. Loved reading your thoughts here, thank you!

    I just put a pre-order in on a Stooge Scrambler 20”, very excited, but hoping you could answer a few questions about your experience buying a Stooge. Firstly, being a fellow Canadian, were there additional customs charges, and if so can you give me a ballpark figure? Also, I’m about 5’-10”, 32” inseam, Andy recommended an 18”, but if I were to get a custom frame built the geo would be a lot closer to the 20”, so that’s what I went with. I wonder if you could let me know your height/inseam and if you have any thoughts on how your speedbomb fits you?
    Ok, time to go read your thoughts on the Sirius! Thank you!

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    1. HI Arden,

      I’m glad you found your way here. Thanks for following along.

      I paid $135CAD to DHL for the Stooge. That’s mostly sales tax like you’d pay if you bought locally plus a brokerage/processing fee. I don’t believe there is any duty on these frames. Andy will knock 20% off the frame price on his end to take VAT off which is the UK sales tax so you’ll come out ahead on taxes, but you’ll pay for shipping.

      I ordered on 20 Sept 23 and rec’d the frame on 25 Sept 23. No hassles. I pre-paid taxes so the box just showed up at my door. It was packed well and there was no damage.

      I’m 5’11” and wear 33″ inseam pants. The Speedbomb fits me well with a short 33mm length stem uncut fork steerer and 85mm Junker bars. I wouldn’t want the frame any larger. The top tube is a bit high. Not a real problem, but high enough I hit it sometime getting on/off the bike.

      Enjoy the Scrambler. Feel free to drop me a line with your thoughts on the bike once you get it rolling.

      All the best….

      Vik

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  4. Hi Vik

    Thanks for the information, it’s very useful.

    I noticed how tall you went with your setup in the cockpit department, which, if I am not mistaken, is higher than your usual already pretty high set up. Did you make this choice to try and get as much weight as possible off your hands/upper body making the rigid set up more comfortable through rough terrain or was just based purely on what you perceive to be a more comfortable body position on the Dirtbomb geo?  On this topic, I have always found Jeff Jones’ theory of trasferring more weight from the hands to the legs via a short and tall cockpit very interesting ( https://youtu.be/kMkQ7z9Gi7c?t=140 ) and I believe has its merits particularly for a rigid set up.

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  5. Hi Rampi,

    The bars on the Stooge are higher than my typical [level with saddle] height. I just threw the bars on with a bunch of spacers and started riding the bike. I figured if they were too high I’d start taking out spacers until I hit a happy spot then cut the steerer. Well as it turned out I never did remove any spacers. The high bars just felt good. From an ergonomic perspective I have not changed anything from the first ride. The bike just works for me.

    The Speedbomb geo and what Jeff Jones builds is quite different. That said I do like a slack STA and the taller bars makes for a very comfortable seated or standing position. My hands/arms are the weak spot in my body for mountain biking as I get older so less weight on them feels good and it hasn’t seemed to hurt my riding performance so it’s an easy compromise.

    I tend to reuse parts from one bike to the next and some of my forks have steerer tubes that are cut a bit shorter than I would do now, but they are not so low I can’t use them. So I suspect you’ll see bars on all my bikes go higher over time as I get new forks. Even on hardtails or FS bikes.

    — Vik

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  6. I should note two other things about my fit on the Speedbomb 1) it’s relatively big compared to other frames I am riding and 2) the long CS and the way my body is proportioned [top heavy] mean it’s better for me to have a shorter distance from my saddle to the bars while keeping my saddle back towards the rear wheel for traction.

    If I lowered the bars by removing the spacers given the slackish HTA the bars would be moving forward which wouldn’t be helpful. Keeping them high makes it easier to get my saddle where I want it without having to bend forward to get to the bars.

    That’s also why I am running a short 33mm stem.

    — Vik

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    1. Hi Vik,

      That makes sense, and I guess you can get away with such a high cockpit to load your front wheel because of the long chainstays which naturally put more of your weight on the front wheel patch compared to shorter ones.

      Speaking of which, how are you finding those long chainstays on the Dirtbomb? Do you often wish it had shorter ones? Like you I like short chainstays in oder to lift the front wheel more easily, particularly at slow speeds. When I ride I love to manual and bump jump at every rock, root, and edge I can find and the 450mm chainstays would make that quite difficult for me, I think. For my riding style, the Scrambler would be a better choice but I’d have to sacrifice tire clearance and the slacker HTA of the Dirtbomb. Have you been happy with such compromise (if it was a compromise for you) or would you be tempted to get the Scrambler (or MK6) instead if you were to buy it again?

      Cheer

      Rampi

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      1. Hi Rampi,

        My body weight is naturally biased to my upper body. So I can easily load the front wheel on any bike even the ones I have with ~425mm CS. My problem with mountain bikes in general is loading up the rear wheel on steep loose climbs.

        The Speedbomb is not a bike that pops off every feature like a BMX bike. It’s more monster truck. All my hardtails have short CS so I can pop and play on them to get my fix. You can get the Speedbomb in the air, but it needs more speed than a shorter CS bike. I wouldn’t say it’s bad. It just has a different personality in that regard.

        I’d be interested to try the Scrambler and see what that frame/fork is like. The new version can take a 29 x 2.6″ tire in the rear and I can live with that. 1 deg of HTA difference doesn’t bother me either.

        — Vik

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  7. Oh yes, you did mentioned somewhere else that your issue is usually the back wheel traction on climbs. For me the issue is the ease of front wheel lift. I suspect the Scrambler would definitely be more playful to ride than the Dirtbomb. But then I am not so sure I would like to pop and play on a rigid bike in the same way I do with a bike with a suspension fork. Perhaps after a while I would feel the sting too much and ultimately prefer to ride it differently. It looks like that”s what you isn’t it? Hardtails for play and Dirtbomb for monstertrucking with wheels on the ground. I guess one option to consider would be to go mullet on the Dirtbomb to increase the playful character. I actually really like a plus mullet set up. I play with it on my hardtail and love it. I just wish the 27×3.0 tire size wasn’t going extinct like it is. If I am not mistaken there are only one or max 2 models still in existance which is even worse than 29×3.0 😦

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  8. speaking of tires, the Duro Crux looks very interesting, particularly for a rigid set up. Andrew from Stooges considers it the best front tire for his bikes. Have you tried/planning to try one Vik?

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  9. No plans to try a Duro Crux. I have quite a stock of XR4 & XR2 tires on my shelf now due to Trek’s recent ~50% off sale. I also have a set of DHF/DHR 29+ tires, a set of Rekon+ 29+ tires and I think I have a set or two of 29+ Surly Knards in the crawlspace as well. So I’m pretty much set for 29+ rubber for many many years.

    When I have tried bigger tires up front on various bikes I have not enjoyed that asymmetry. If anything I’d want the bigger tire under my butt. So running a 29++ tire up front doesn’t interest me. That said other folks certainly seem to enjoy going big for their front tire. If it interests you it’s worth a shot.

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  10. On a rigid set up I would definitely try a Crux. I do like a big volume tire on the back of my hardtail as well but I guess if I would be running a rigid fork I would want to increase the cush as much as possible.

    I do have few 29+ tires as well that should last me for a number of years. My only problem is the possible deterioration of the rubber. I do keep them inside a box away from direct light but it may not be sufficient to keep them in good shape. Do you use any specific measures to keep them in new conditions, like for example vacuum sealed?

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    1. As I noted in my PT2 review of the Speedbomb I found the “best” tire size was actually 29 x 2.6″ with an insert in the rear. There are more ways to achieve a comfortable ride than suspension or tire volume. Having light/agile tires on the bike mean you can get it on the smoothest line and ride around obstacles, pop the front wheel up more easily over obstacles and the lighter tire has less momentum so when it does hit something it rides over it with less jarring inputs than a heavier tire.

      I don’t do anything special for tire storage, at least in terms of single digit years I have not found storage degradation to be an issue. If that happens it’s fine. It’s just part of the process around using niche equipment. The Chupa/XR2 tires on my Krampus are ~9 years old and still work great.

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      1. Happy for you that your preferred set up is with 29×2.6″. You won’t have any problems in the future as I don’t think that size will ever disappear. For me, my trails and riding style, on a hardtail the best tire size is a true 3.0″. Will I still ride hardtails with 2.6″ tire? Of course I will but it will not be as enjoyable unfortunately.
        I do have few tires that are 6-7 years old, including a Chupacabra wichi is still fine. But the current stock I own will probably last me for the next 5 years if they do not degrade in the meantime. Some of the big volume tires like the Chupacabra or Minions do last quite a lot. Others, like the Rekon 2.8″ nowhere near as much. I have not tried the XR4 yet but I have one for future use. I wish I bought an SE4 were they were still available though.

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